Included Items
Required Materials
Step 1: Green Placement
Step 2: Area Measurement
Step 3: Add Sub-Base
Step 4: Compact Sub-Base
Step 5: Cup Placement
Step 6: Hole Cutting
Step 7: Compact Sub-Base Again
Step 8: Check Sub-Base
Step 9: Shaping the Green
Step 10: Seaming the Green
Step 11: Check Seam
Step 12: Place Turf
Step 13: Reinforce Seam
Step 14: Check Green
Step 15: Separate Fibers
Step 16: Apply Sand
Step 17: Cut Holes in Turf

A Standard 3/8" Drill & Extension Cord (To attach the hole cutter and cut the holes for the regulation cups) (For outside installation only)
A #10 Socket to attach to your hole cutter
A 1/4" drive power bit adapter to attach to the #10 Socket
A Push Broom
A Rake
A measuring tape
A shovel
Garden Hose
Adjustable spray nozzle
Utility knife
White and Black Sandblasting Sand (35 grit or medium) Make sure it is 35 grit sand blasting sand and not all-purpose sand If you can't find a 35 grit then use a 40 or 60 grit which is a finer sand (This sand can be purchased at any sandblasting supply store) (Cost - $4.00 to $6.00 per 100 lb. bag) You will need: three to four 100 lb. bags for the 12'x12' four to five 100 lb. bags for the 12'x16' six to seven 100 lb. bags for the 12'x 24 You will want to get at least 2 bag of sand that is black in color - this will be explained later. (For outdoor/indoor installation)

Sub-base Material - This is known by several different names in different areas of the country. The stone is called granite crush and run, manufactured sand, DG (decentigrated granite) crushed fines, stone dust, limestone, or limestone dust. The stone must be 3/8" minus or 1/4" minus. This means that none of the pieces of stone are larger than 3/8" or 1/4" This can be purchased at a local rock quarry or gravel pit. (Make sure that the stone has NOT been washed. You want the smaller, finer pieces of stone in the rock material to help in the compaction process) (Cost - $10.00 to 15.00 per ton delivered) (For outside installation only) (You will need 2 tons for the 12'x12'putting green) (4 tons for the 12' x 24'putting green) Note: If you will be installing a larger custom size green then use the 12' x 24' material requirements as your scale

Vegetation Kill (To kill all grass before you lay down the sub-base) (Cost - $4.00 to $6.00) (For outside installation only)
A gas tamp or lawn roller (To compact the sub base material) (Cost ö rental is $20.00 to $30.00 per day ö Gas Tamp) (Cost - rental is $8.00 to $10.00 per day ö Lawn Roller) (For outdoor installation only)
Drop Spreader (To spread the sand onto the green) (Cost - $10.00 to $15.00) (For outdoor/indoor installation)
Plastic Liner (To keep weeds from growing through the sub base and your green )

When you are ready to install your putting green you will need to lay it out at room temperature to give the putting green time to settle from being packaged. This only takes about 30 minutes depending on the out door or room temperature. While the green is laid out you can be preparing the yard surface you will be putting your putting green on.

It is possible that while the putting green was being shipped the turf may have folded somewhere causing large crease. The putting green must not have these creases. If you allow these creases to remain, they will affect the roll of the ball during putting. If there are very small creases then don't worry about them. When you sand fill the putting green these small creases will be flattened and go away.

You have two options to remove large creases.
Option 1:
Take the putting green and put it on a hard outdoor surface like a driveway. If the temperature is 65 degrees or warmer then allow the turf to set in the sun for approximately 30 minutes. Next, pull on one end of the putting green to stretch the wrinkles out of the green. This is the fastest and easiest method.

Option 2:
Take the putting green and put on a hard surface like a driveway. Then turn the putting green over so the backing is facing up. Next, take an iron that you would iron your clothes with and heat the iron to high. Rub the hot iron on the backing of the putting green where a crease is present. Heat the area for about one minute or until the backing is warm to the touch. This technique will not melt the backing nor will it damage your iron in any way.

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Determine where in your yard you want your putting green to go.
(Hint) You want it placed in your yard so that it is fairly level and that it is accessible from other areas of your yard so you can practice your chip shots to it.

Next, spray the Vegetation Kill on all remaining grass.
Lay out a plastic liner on top of the grass in the area where your green will be installed. This liner will prevent grass from growing through your sub base and through your green.



Once you have decided on the location of your putting green, measure off the area where you plan to put your putting green. You will want your green to look as natural as possible. This means that when your synthetic putting green turf stops your natural grass will start. Keep in mind that the green will enhance the appearance of our yard and add value to your property because in a short while you will have a professional quality putting green in you yard.


You are now ready to add the sub-base material.

Spread the (sub-base material) with a shovel in the area where your green will lay. Distribute the sub-base material evenly except the areas where you desire extra depth, contour, and slope. With a yard rake, rake the sub-base material until you have the contoured surface to your liking. Use a shovel to move large amounts of the sub-base material and the flat side of the rake to smooth out the sub-base.
All drainage will be off the top of the green and NOT through the green. If the drainage was through the green then this would eventually deteriorate your sub base.
This means there must be slight slope to the sub base for water drainage.

Next you need to compact the sub-base material. If you do not compact the sub-base material properly it will eventually settle in a way that will cause irregularities in the surface of your putting green thus affecting the role of the ball when putting.

You can use a variety of items for the compacting your sub-base. A gas tamp will compact the sub base much faster and save you a lot of time. A lawn roller will compact the sub-base but will take much longer. Both of these items can be rented from local rental facilities. If you don't know where to go to rent these compacting devises then call your local hardware or lawn and garden supply store and they can tell you where to go.

With your garden hose and spray nozzle, wet the sub-base thoroughly but do not saturate the sub-base. Now compact the sub-base with whatever you have chosen to use. You will want to compact the sub-base several times to insure good solid compaction. Make sure that the sub-base is moist each time you compact . If there are any small bumps, ridges, or irregular dips remaining, smooth them out with your rake or shovel. You will notice low spots or dips that are not smooth as the rest of the sub base around it, chances are you have a low spot on the sub base that needs to be filled. Your main goal is to keep the surface uniformly smooth and solid.

This is the time when you want to add the slope or contour you desire. This is achieved by adding additional sub base material to an area. Understand that the putting green turf is going to adhere to whatever surface you will put it on.
If you add too much slope to your sub base material your ball will roll very fast and may roll off your green. The best way to determine weather you have enough or too much slope or contour is after you have completely compacted the sub base material is take a golf ball and putter and putt on the sub base itself. The ball will break the same on the sub-base as it will when you install the putting green.

Your sub-base should be a minimum depth of 4 inches when compaction is complete.

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Now you are ready to install your regulation cups. Optional accessories include 3 regulation cups. You may decide to use all 3 or you may decide to use less. You must first determine where you will want the cups to be located on your putting green. To get a feel for where the holes should be placed, take your cups and arrange them on the sub base in the area where your putting green will go. Continue to move the cups around until you are satisfied with their placement.

Next, mark the place where the cup will be permanently placed. This can be achieved by applying pressure to each cup and rotating it on the sub-base. This will cause a small indention in the sub base that will be used as a marker or reference point when using the hole-cutter.

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Take the supplied hole-cutter, a #10 socket, and a 1/4" drive power driver bit and attach it to your standard drill. The hole-cutter will cut a perfect hole so your cups will fit firmly in place. Stand directly over the area that you marked with your cups and place your hole-cutter in that same location making sure the hole cutter is touching the sub base. Slowly allow the drill to rotate into the sub base below. If the ground below the sub base is rocky or very hard you may need to remove the hole-cutter and remove the loose dirt and rocks by hand or by using a small hand shovel, then use the hole cutter in the same manner as before. You may have to do this several times. Because your cups are 6 inches tall, you need to make the hole 6 inches in depth. The cup should be flush with the sub-base material. Don't worry if you go deeper because you can always backfill the hole with the loose dirt.
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After cutting each hole remove all excess dirt from inside and around the lip of the hole. Install the cup into the hole. The cup should be flush with the top of the sub-base. You may need to add or take away dirt in the hole to achieve this. If there are gaps around the outside of the cups you will need to fill these gaps with the dirt. Do each hole in the same manner.

Now compact the sub-base several more times to insure good compaction of the entire sub-base but also good compaction around the cups themselves. Make sure that the sub-base is moist each time you com-pact the area.

After you have completed the compacting, your cup should be flush with the top of the sub-base and your sub base must be level around the cup. You may need to add or take away sub-base material from around the cups to achieve this.
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Make sure the sub-base is the way you want it.
If you want to add or take away extra slopes or contours then now is the time to do it. If you make any changes to the sub-base then you must compact the sub-base after the changes are made. Once the putting green and the sand is added, it will extremely difficult to adjust the sub-base. Take a ball and your putter and putt on the sub-base. Putting will allow you to see where you slopes and contours are located and allow you to see how the ball will break from left to right, uphill or downhill.
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Your green will be delivered in a rectangular shape. You may desire to shape the green to give it a natural look. Refer to your brochure for shapes and diagrams.

The fibers of the putting green turf are slanted or has a slight grain that you will notice.

MAKE SURE THE GRAIN OF EACH ROLL OF PUTTING GREEN TURF IS RUNNING IN THE SAME DIRECTION
First, take your green and flip it over on the back so that the black backing is facing up.
Next take a white or yellow grease pencil or chalk and mark the entire shape of the green you desire. Remember the green is flipped over so whatever shape you cut will be the exact opposite when you flip the green over with the green side up. Take a utility knife with a brand new blade and cut along the lines you have marked.
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If you are ordering a green that is wider than 12 feet then you will need to seam two pieces of green together. This is very simple and easy to do.

If you are ordering a green that is 12 feet wide then omit steps 10 through 14

You will be provides with the following:

• Black seaming tape strips
• Commercial strength outdoor adhesive
• Adhesive product specification data sheet

You will need the following:

• A trowel or something similar to be used in spreading the adhesive.

The fibers of the putting green turf are slanted or has a slight grain that you will notice.

MAKE SURE THE GRAIN OF EACH ROLL OF PUTTING GREEN TURF IS RUNNING IN THE SAME DIRECTION
Flip the turf over so that the black backing is facing up.
Cut the black strip off of one of the rolls of turf where the seam will come together. Do not cut into the stitching.
Overlap the turf at the center where your seam will be.
You will want a 2 to 3 inch overlap. Make sure that the overlap is the same at both ends, as well as, the center of the green.
Take a utility knife with a new blade and cut through both rolls of turf at the same time. This will provide you with a prefect seam. This process is similar cutting and seaming wallpaper or carpet in your home.
Please take your time and be very careful when cutting.
You may want to use a straight edge to help keep your cut consistently straight.

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Flip the putting green over so the green is facing up.
On a hard surface, NOT your sub-base, butt the two pieces of turf together. Make sure the seam is tight the full length of the green.
You may need to trim some areas alone the length of the seam to ensure a tight fit.



If you are satisfied with the seam, move the pieces of turf to your sub-base Make sure your sub-base is moist but not wet.
Position the pieces of turf to be seamed green side up on the sub-base Butt the pieces of turf together to form the tight seam.

Lay each piece of the putting green turf over at the seam Position the black seaming tape strips on the sub-base where your seam will come together. Make sure there is an equal amount of black strip on each side of the seam.

Spread the adhesive over the entire area of the black strip. Make sure the thickness of the adhesive is no more than 1/8" inch.

Allow 10 minutes for the adhesive to set up.
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Starting at one end of the green and fold back together the pieces of the turf. Press the seam in place as you go, applying pressure to ensure good contact of the black turf backing and the adhesive. Once the entire green has been seamed together, walk several times over the area that has been seamed. Be careful when walking on the seam itself. The glue may come up through the seam and get on the putting green fibers if the glue is too thick on the seaming tape.

Allow 30 minutes cure time before starting the sand filling process.
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The putting green should fit within the sub-base area you have made for it. You will want the edges of the putting green to lay over the edge of your sub-base or come to the edge of the existing grass. You may need to remove some sub-base to achieve this. This can be done with a shovel. Make certain there are no large creases in the turf or it will affect the roll of the ball. If there are small creases then don't worry about them. When you sand fill the putting green these small creases will be flattened out and go away due to the weight of the sand.
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Before spreading the sand it is necessary to separate the fibers of the putting green the best you can. This can be achieved by using a push-broom and brushing against the grain of the fibers. The fibers of the putting green turf are slanted or have a slight grain that you will notice. You will need to brush the fibers in the opposite direction. Do this several times in order to get the fibers vertical and separate the fibers before sand filling.
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Now you are ready to sand fill the putting green. It is important to understand that the putting green and sand MUST stay dry during the sand filling process. If the sand or green gets wet the sand will clump together thus not allowing the sand to get between the fibers of the putting green and be properly filled.

Fill the drop spreader with sand and spread the sand across the top of the green. Start spreading the sand in the middle of the green and working your way to the outside. Be sure not to apply too much sand at one time before brushing. A good rule of thumb is to use 1/2 to 1 bag of sand over the entire green between brushings depending on the size of your green. You must aggressively brush between all the sand spreading. When brushing you need to stand at one end of the green, exerting pressure down on your push broom while brushing against the grain of the putting green. This sand filling procedure must be repeated until you run out of sand so it will take several times. The objective is to keep the fibers standing vertical. Too much sand and not enough brushing will result in buried fibers. Too little sand will not give you the holding or cushion ability of the green you will want when chipping or pitching.

As more sand is applied you will notice that certain areas have more sand than others. This is hard to avoid. If you notice areas that are over sanded, work them out with your push broom the best you can before continuing to spread sand.

Continue the sand filling process until 1/8" of the fiber is showing on the putting green. Make sure the last bag(s) of sand you put on the green is the black sand. This will cover the white sand that you will notice when the green is almost completely filled. Also the black sand will make the putting green fibers look much denser and deeper.
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You can locate the cup holes by pressing the turf with your hands until you feel the holes. Using a utility knife with a brand new blade cut the holes out of the turf. First cut an "X" inside the hole and then cut tightly around the inside edge of the cup. It is very important for you to take your time when cutting around the inner edge of the cups. After the holes are cut, take a pair of scissors and trim the loose fibers around the cup.
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